Maria Grazia Chiuri chose the charismatic figure of Joséphine Baker to guide her latest haute couture défilé. The multitalented African-American singer and dancer inspired the Dior artistic director in her explorations around the concept of the couture garment as ‘body-garment’, ‘body-home’ and a ‘body-manifesto’.
From dressing rooms to stage, the silhouettes propose variations of cinematic black and Dior grey tonalities, set off by the spotlight whites and cabaret gold shades. Satin robes created a déshabillé-habillé look. A choreography of silk and velvet glide over the body as delicate embroidery and tiny sequins reflect the runway lights and fluid fringes accompany the rhythm of the body. Eveningwear silhouettes in crumpled velvet and pleated skirts prolong the movement.
Bar jackets, suits and coats dear to Monsieur Dior are paired with platform sandals for this haute couture performance. The show’s staging by African-American artist Mickalene Thomas celebrates Black and mixed-race women who, like Joséphine Baker, broke barriers and went against the grain.