Whether a humble next-door foodie hub or a gastronomical Michelin haven, the historical Japanese Izakaya notion has steadily graced the dining tables of our urbane UK-settled eateries.
Made up of three “kanji” with the meaning in the literal order of “stay-drink-place”, cultured culinary connoisseurs get the opportunity to enjoy a sapid array of not so, or very much so pretentious delicacies centred around the small plate-sharing concept, where diners indulge on a flavoursome encounter of varied tastes, textures and non-fussy cooking elements to be relished alongside vast volumes of whiskey, sake, and uncomplicated cocktail concoctions for guests to settle in, drink away and get snug.
Adopting a more, beau-monde essence on the homegrown tradition of this sacred cuisine concept, the award-winning destination of The Aubrey restaurant and cocktail bar demonstrates a fresh epicurean precedent with their eccentric Izakaya brunch menu, showcasing a wholesome native-influenced array of hearty afternoon delights, swirled with a prettified finesse for their boujee clientele. This tends to be savoured alongside a free-flowing tipple affair of resplendent speciality cocktails, A1 champagne, and Japanese sparkling sake as the DJ’s set pulsates into the atmosphere.
Replacing the renowned French bistro of Bar Boulud within the time-honoured sanctuary of the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park hotel, The Aubrey has relished its top-seeded acclaim since its decadent genesis in January ‘22, christened after Oscar Wilde’s favoured British and at times risqué artist and illustrator Aubrey Beardsley. This luxury getup thrives in also forming part of the luxe Hong Based Maximal Concepts restaurant entourage as their first UK nouvelle cuisine endeavour, which also has successfully managed the Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong. Barely a few steps apart from Hyde Park station, The Aubrey treasures it’s own unique identity and separate entryway within the resident dwelling of its gloried hotel landlord, wreathed in a vibrant blooming array of Magenta florals and emerald botanicals, before one begins their descends into the dusky haven, and effortlessly gliding through the intricate Japanese cloth curtains to enter this epicurean debonair den.
Embodying a seductive yet chivalrous ambience with a glamorous East Asian panache, it is the urbane London-rooted design studio Brady Williams and their polished blueprint panache that had brought to life, the origins of a suave early 20th century Gentleman’s club vision, with the ambience of a hedonistic hush-hush hideaway. The space comes cocooned in a labyrinth of wood, velvet, and marble all showcased within the uniquely curated plush dining stations of the salon, library and curio, not to forget their palatial private dining room settings garnished with colossal crystal chandeliers, to arouse a sense of stately grandeur.
The enclave of the cocktail salon, bedecked in a sheath of earthy green leather seating and golden hues rested next to lustrous chocolate wood features, and neighbouring an impressive backlit bar all together which amply evoked a refuge of deep-seated exclusivity suitable for a 007 agent, to effortlessly indulge in a shaken not stirred. The curio room, on the other hand, played to blush pink and dusky amber pigments against custom-created fabric panels, and the treasured settings of their recovered fireplace as tasselled vintage lampshades radiated against Ukiyo-e prints, embellishing the sumptuous feather-soft walls. Illustrious art and exceptional literacy rest as the beating heart of this fine dining quarters, with a classical rare assemblage of highly prized book titles lined up in the slick illuminated shelves of the library, while a catalogue of striking artworks adorned the glossy walls throughout the milieu, many of which hinted to Aubrey Beardsley’s esteemed illustrations on highly sought after novels of the short stories of Edgar Allan Poe, and Salome by Oscar Wilde.
Recognised for my soft spot towards a pre-repast aperitif in the company of the mixologists’ team, it was anything except negotiable to have the afternoon’s soiree scene kindled with an early PM concoction, whilst wallowing in a shadowy corner of the bar’s serene terrain. Aubrey Beardsley’s artwork had tended to heavily highlight various portrayals of ethereal heroine-like women, which were seen to be reflective of the artistic and cultural calibre of his time and thus, has played a core influence in forming the basis of the cocktail menu titled Aubrey’s Mythological Women. The Medusa, inspired by the mythical woman who transformed into a chilling entity with snakes for hair had exquisitely played to the interlace of beauty and power; delicate yet bold with the mellow fruitiness of Rice Shochu, swirled with creamy hints from the dollop of plain yoghurt concluded with a floral finale sparkle, of The Aubrey’s own self titled champagne perfectly whetting the post meridiem appetite.
Ushered into the dimly-lit sanctuary of the main dining setup, it was head-sommelier Maxim Kassjr presenting a much welcome glass of The Tsuchida Aubrey Junmai Sake, smooth and delicate with a lightly sweet profile making for an idyllic coupling with the buttered nuttiness of the helping of edamame, uplifted with the sprinkling of salted chilli.
The Aubrey does not put its faith in novelty fetish fads; they put their faith in tempting edible seduction on a fine China plate. The popcorn lobster saw paper fine, golden crisp batter unearth the meaty yet tender tail of this sweet briny oceanic offering, lightly coated in smidgens of a silken spiced sauce drizzle, whilst the signature starlet of the tender chicken karaage steered clear of the habitual deep fried routine, instead choosing to turn heads and make mouths water with its edible raven toned charcoal and citrus tinted mayonnaise. Embracing my newfound adoration for the world of sake, the hosts chose not to waste even a nanosecond of having me in the presence of a dainty flute or four flowing with their sparkling concoction of the Masumi Origarami, time after time hailed for their savoury earth relish with a grape sugared touch which paired elegantly to cut through the deep richness of the croquettes, flowing with lashings of velvet black truffle cream and accompanied with a refreshing health burst of a leafy spinach salad.
Not one to abandon the opportunity to savour a saporous maki roll serving, the mild yet flavoursome sear from the yellowtail tuna had married into the crunchy fried delights of the prawn tempura, before winding up the savoury gala with one of the fresher bruncheon additions of their satin sleek scrambled eggs, fused with garlic herbed rice and a luxe finale of solid, butter-soaked lobster nuggets. Not one to accept a rejection for a sweet treat helping, it was proven futile to attempt a retreat sans a sample of their celebrated Japanese pancakes; delectably featherlight airy and fuelled with candied nut aromas that melted in the mouth on first bite, just as the restaurant upped the ante with a reanimated party spirit and DJ mashups, as the London skies metamorphosed into the darkening ebony shade.
In Conclusion
The elaborate backdrop of The Aubrey has championed the spirited sphere of wanton cuisine offerings, all the while trying true-blue and humble to their unpretentious bon-vivant history of the Izakaya gist, mixed in with a quasi-European adaptation which has been nothing short of deliciously impeccable.
The team have a minor yet crucial fistful of solid intentions; soak in the five-star ambience, indulge in a lavish array of traditional dining with a nouvelle-cuisine flair washed down with copious deluxe beverages, and exit the premises with a grin as far-reaching as the one on the Cheshire Cat.
