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Christie’s Glamour Collection: Iconic Art & Photography

Christie’s Glamour Collection: Iconic Art & Photography

Christie’s is set to captivate the world of art and photography from the 26th of October to the 9th of November with its Photographies Online Sale. This exclusive…

By Salon Privé 24 October 2023

Christie’s is set to captivate the world of art and photography from the 26th of October to the 9th of November with its Photographies Online Sale.

This exclusive event will showcase over 130 prints by some of the most influential 20th and 21st-century artists, including iconic names like Helmut Newton, Robert Mapplethorpe, Irving Penn, Peter Beard, William Klein, Hiroshi Sugimoto, Man Ray, and Constantin Brancusi.

The auction is poised to achieve a remarkable 1.7 to 2.3 million euros in total sales.

The focal point of this event is the first section, known as Lothar Schirmer’s Glamour Collection, featuring 82 lots dedicated to the renowned art publisher.

Lothar Schirmer’s Glamour Collection

Lothar Schirmer, the driving force behind Schirmer/Mosel, a publishing house with over 1,500 books dedicated to art and photography, has created a collection that needs no introduction. With 386 editions still in circulation, Schirmer/Mosel has been a staple in the world of art publishing. His most recent endeavour, the Glamour Collection, is a personal tribute to a portion of his collection. With the approach of Schirmer/Mosel’s 50th anniversary in April 2024 and his 80th birthday on the horizon, Schirmer realizes that his collection, which encapsulates the spirit of his youth, is now complete.

Peter Lindbergh, Madonna, Harper’s Bazaar USA,
Los Angeles, 1994 Tirage Argentique, 60 X 50 cm
Estimation: 12 000 – 18 000€

The cornerstone of Schirmer’s collection gathered with passion over five decades, is glamour. Schirmer classifies glamour into three categories: celebrity portraits, erotic nudes, and fashion advertisements. The collection also boasts photographic performances and the renowned “film stills” popularized by Cindy Sherman. As Isabella Rossellini eloquently describes, “In this new book Lothar tries to extrapolate the essence of glamour. Faithful to his original point of view, he mixes talents who otherwise would not be together…proposing new associations and relationships among talents” (“Paper Treasure,” Schirmer/Mosel Publications, Glamour Collection: Lothar Schirmer, September 2023).

The Spotlight on Portraits

This sale celebrates the essence of the collection, with portraits taking centre stage. It’s where artistic styles converge with creative techniques. A highlight among these portraits is Madonna by Peter Lindbergh, captured during a photoshoot for Harper’s Bazaar fashion magazine in 1994 (estimate: €12,000 – 18,000). Unlike certain images in fashion photography, Lindbergh’s work champions the natural and authentic beauty of his models. In the same intimate and natural style, Brigitte Lacombe presents her pared-down portrait of Isabella Rossellini (estimate: €2,000 – 3,000).

Brigitte Lacombe, Isabella Rossellini, NYC,
1989 Tirage Argentique, 26 X 25,8 cm
Estimation: 2 000-3 000€

Nudes hold a recurring theme in the Lothar Schirmer collection. A standout is the transgressive and famous photograph of Yves Saint Laurent by Jeanloup Sieff (estimate: €10,000 – 15,000). Saint Laurent’s vulnerability before the camera lens challenges conventional masculinity. Contemporary photographers like Jean-Baptiste Mondino, Steven Klein, Anton Corbijn, and Nick Knight also grace the collection.

Lothar Schirmer’s Personal Connection

Lothar Schirmer’s personal connection to this collection stems from both private and professional motives. Growing up in a dressmaking studio surrounded by dress fabrics, sewing silks, and luxury fashion magazines, Schirmer’s sensibilities for elegance, opulence, and the sublime eroticism of fashion photography were honed.

As he aptly puts it, “It sharpened the senses, especially the eye, for elegance, opulence, and the sublime eroticism of fashion photography” (“On Glamour,” Schirmer/Mosel Publications, Glamour Collection: Lothar Schirmer, September 2023).

Iconic Photographs in the Sale

The second section of the sale features an ensemble of iconic photographs. Leading the way are the Helmut Newton portfolios Private Property, Suites I, II & III (1975-1983), estimated at €300,000 – 500,000. Newton’s ability to blend fashion photography, portraiture, and eroticism is evident in his anthology.

Another standout is Robert Mapplethorpe’s Man in Polyester Suit (1980; estimate: €200,000 – 300,000), known for its provocative and powerful commentary. Irving Penn’s Man Lighting Girl’s Cigarette (1949; estimate: €70,000 – 90,000) showcases the interplay between transparency and contrasts, creating a sublime conversation between foreground and background.

Jeanloup Sieff, Yves Saint Laurent, Paris, 1971
Tirage Argentique 40 X 30 cm
Estimation: 10 000 – 15 000€

Emerging Artists and Vision Ahead

Two photographs by Constantin Brancusi, La Négresse blanche de trois-quarts vue de nuit and Le Poisson (estimates: €30,000 – 50,000 and €20,000 – 30,000 respectively), reveal the artist’s unique perspective. Brancusi, a pioneer of modern sculpture, turned to photography after meeting Man Ray in 1914. His photographs offer insights into his meticulous approach, where lighting, framing, and the position of each piece in his atelier held immense significance.

Among new and emerging artists, Ghanaian artist Sarfo Emmanual Annor’s Vision Ahead (estimate: €5,000 – 7,000) stands out. Captured on his smartphone, Annor’s shots of contemporary Africa blend portrait photography with vibrant colours to narrate the dreams and stories of younger generations in Koforidua, Ghana.

Conclusion

Christie’s Photographies Online Sale promises to be an unforgettable journey through the glamour and artistry of the 20th and 21st centuries.

With Lothar Schirmer’s Glamour Collection at its heart, this event celebrates the power of photography to capture the essence of glamour, revealing the stories, passions, and visions of iconic artists.

It’s a rare opportunity to acquire pieces of history and immerse oneself in the world of artistic expression.

Images: Christie’s

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