Margiela and his broken dolls is the most viral thing at Paris Haute Couture Week
The nocturnal allure of Maison Margiela Artisanal 2024
Under the Pont Alexandre III, between rain-soaked steps, Galliano invited us to dive into the nocturnal Parisian underworld.
Behind a subterranean door, a Parisian room with bare floors, coffee tables, dim mirrors and a bar full of empty glasses awaited us.
And it was in this corner, bathed in yellowish light, that we witnessed John Galliano evoke a world of characters and haute couture.
Another 100% Galliano experience, more unexpected and surprising than fashion has been in years.
The magic of a truly immersive experience: beyond the runway
More than a fashion show, Maison Margiela Artisanal 2024 was an act of immersive magic that – thankfully – defied conventional boundaries.
Under the wolf’s moon, Galliano transported us through time and space, reliving the bohemia of decades past. In this way, the presentation was not only a fashion event but also a theatrical spectacle that defied all our expectations.
Broken Dolls: diversity and expression
In the midst of haute couture, the casting and staging of the models can be seen as a daring act.
They were transformed into “broken dolls”. Characters that combined fragile beauty, decadence, sensuality and the grotesque, dressed in a bewitching elegance.
Characters sculpted to Galliano’s specifications by the vision of Pats, McGrath and Boguslawski, who liberated the models to act beyond the catwalk, to defy norms and embrace authenticity.
In this sense, Pat Boguslawski’s casting work was key to bringing these broken puppets to life on the catwalk.
Something of an appeal to diversity, to delve into souls and, above all, a bold reflection of contemporary reality – without filters.
A craftsmanship and creativity ballet: the 5 keys to Margiela’s haute couture collection
Maison Margiela Artisanal 2024 presented not only fashion but also a ballet of craftsmanship and creativity. From sculptural silhouettes to innovative fabrics, every detail was an expression of artisanal commitment.
Here are what I consider to be the 5 keys to the collection.
Sculptural silhouettes: treating the body as an emotional canvas
Galliano transformed the silhouettes into emotional canvases, where the fabrics and the performance of the models gave us a repertoire of emotions.
From corsets that transform the figure in extreme, almost grotesque ways, to garments that capture unconscious gestures, the collection takes fashion to new heights, fusing art with fashion.
A critique of the almost impossible stereotypes that appear on social networks and feed a vital anxiety in a world obsessed with an artificial aesthetic devoid of personality and elegance. A trend that oppresses and suffocates our criteria.
Curves are emphasised and exaggerated, resulting in a dramatic and almost hypnotic sensuality.
The adoption of innovative fabrics: a play with textures and colours
Galliano once again plays with and relishes textile innovation, offering us a dance of light and shadow.
The milletrage and retrograding processes demonstrate exceptional patience and virtuosity, redefining the limits of what is possible in haute couture.
It is freedom, creativity in its purest form, a vital art.
Commitment to perfection through craftsmanship
Twelve months of craftsmanship in the Maison Margiela ateliers are reflected in new techniques. From the stitching to the rétrécirage, each garment tells a story of artistic perfection.
Craftsmanship at the service of excellence and modernity, a slap in the face that awakens us to the beauty of timelessness and quality.
If you immerse yourself in this collection, it is very likely that you will be repulsed by fast fashion. Something I welcome.
The role of the accessories in blending styles
Someone like Galliano required a partner who would appreciate the drama and his aesthetic vision.
That’s why the cooperation with Christian Louboutins was so coherent, resulting in a unique fusion of styles. From foam hats to aquarelle tulle masks, each accessory elevates the experience to an unimaginable level.
Split-toe pumps, platforms and boots were all part of Margiela’s operatic, Parisian and voyeuristic show.
The iconic two-piece Tabi ankle strap heels in black neoprene or pink or emerald velvet and lizard skin were also present.
One of the eye-catching creations was the knee-high Tabi boot in pony skin, painted with a reverse gradient technique to evoke an animal aesthetic.
And the two-piece Tabi heels with interlocking ankle strap in black neoprene or velvet and lizard print in yellow, emerald or Eau de Nil.
Make-up as expression and freedom of creativity
A collection and its setting demands make-up and hairstyling capable of conveying the values and vision of the collection.
And this season was a challenge in every way: to give voice to the clothing, to the characters, to the creative freedom and to achieve an exceptional visual impact.
Pats McGrath’s transformation of the models goes beyond make-up. She remains the master and once again made her make-up for Margiela the most viral of the Haute Couture week (and probably of any other collection seen in the 21st century).
In fact, it was an artistic expression that unleashed creativity, allowing the models to embody a variety of characters. From aquarelle masks to Rorschach details, any choice of makeup became the perfect accomplice in the unfolding of the visual narrative.
Galliano’s art beyond fashion
It has been said that this show marks John Galliano’s rebirth in haute couture.
His decision to return to immersive, theatrical staging shows a courage that can only come from a visionary designer.
The presentation was not just a fashion show; it was an experience that fused fashion with storytelling, reaffirming that haute couture is not just clothes, but a constantly evolving art form.
An aesthetic and experiential milestone
To be fair, Maison Margiela Artisanal 2024 is more than a collection, it is an aesthetic and experiential milestone that redefines haute couture.
Galliano has fused the past with the present, capturing the essence of Brassai and transporting us to a dreamy Paris.
So even if you don’t like fashion, I can assure you that this show is not only for fashion lovers but also for those looking for a unique artistic experience that goes beyond the limits of conventional creativity.
Artisanal 2024 by Maison Margiela is another milestone in fashion that transcends the traditional and conventional concept. It is a statement of ambition that will resonate in the world of haute couture long after the catwalk lights have faded.