The Young Horologist take a close look at the new Patek Philippe Calatrava 6007A limited Edition, or as we like to affectionately call it, the Patek Calatrava Manhole Cover Edition.
There are certain people who care so little about watches that all they want is the label. They want to drive around in their bright orange Lambo and their Patek and bask in the glory that comes with owning items from brands like these.
These are the same people who buy Gucci belts or Goyard wallets. What I am saying is there is a certain type of person who buys things with the show-off quotient at the forefront of their mind. Now do not start having a go at me on Instagram DM’s or comments, it is a generalisation to make a point so Hakuna your tatas… I actually happen to like Goyard Wallets.
As some of you might know by now, the new Patek Philippe Calatrava 6007A Limited Edition watch was recently released. This is a 1000 piece Limited Edition to commemorate Patek’s new manufacture in some fancy place in Switzerland. It is worth noting that this is actually quite big news because Patek and Rolex had announced earlier in the year, following the death of Baselworld, that they were not going to release any new watches this year.
Whilst some enthusiasts might have taken this at face value, I did not believe for one second that the big wigs at Patek would be able to go a whole 365 days without deciding a new watch was needed and, for once, I was right.
What we have here is something quite unusual if you ask me. A Limited Edition from Patek in Steel. You would usually expect a watch of this level to be released in white gold mixed with unicorn horn to make it extra special.
However, the release of this watch in steel is in fact very special. Outside of steel versions of the Nautilus and Aquanaut, only 7 of Patek’s current catalogue can be had in good ol’ stainless. The other steel model that Patek currently offer that comes to mind is the very controversial 5212a weekly calendar. Both come in round case shape, and both have similar dial layouts.
This watch has some very interesting design queues. As a Calatrava, it is considered a dress watch. However, this model comes with luminous markers, which seems somewhat contradictory if you ask me.
It also features a second hand and date window. All of these features to me are the antithesis of a ‘dress’ watch, but then again I am not the target demographic for this release. I am sure Philippe Stern couldn’t give a monkeys about my opinions on his use of a date window. Still, worth noting.
I would also argue that commercial appeal aside, this watch is a hair too big for a dress watch. Despite coming in at a very appealing and reasonable 40mm x 9.07mm, for me, if this was at 36/37mm it would be an infinitely more attractive proposition.
Despite this point, the slenderness would give this watch a smaller presence than its 40mm suggests. Continuing to interrogate the case, it does have one very dress watch characteristic: a mere 30mm water resistance. You would never dive or swim in a dress watch, so this for me gives this watch a tick in the dress watch box. Good to see that Patek are clawing back points on the Love/Hate spectrum.
The sports watchy-ness is carried on with the movement. The Patek Philippe Calatrava 6007A is powered by a self-winding calibre 324 SC. For me, a true dress watch should never be automatic. Either manual wind or dare I say it, quartz, are the only two hearts that should be powering a dress piece. Does this again lead to the confusion of whether this watch is dress or sports? I am certainly confused as to which category it fits into.
I hope that this is a sign of things to come. If Patek has waited 6 months to release their first piece of the year, I hope this is the start of a wave of new releases. It is very encouraging to see watch brands start to pick up their tools again and start being able to make watches considering the global pandemic that we seem to be over the hump of. Hopefully, this watch is an example of ‘things can only get better’ and there are some juicy numbers from one of the big dogs coming our way in the next few weeks and months.
This watch, as I mentioned earlier, is a 1000 piece Limited Edition. It will set you back £22,000 of your finest British Pounds. Hopefully, as regular consumers of our content, you do not need me to tell you the plethora of better looking, more horologically impressive watches that you could buy for that price, but if that doesn’t matter to you, I would get on the phone to someone with the surname Stern as a matter of urgency.