Sotheby’s will present A Legacy of Elegance in New York this December, a landmark jewellery auction featuring Belperron, JAR, Cartier, Boivin and Boucheron.
This December, Sotheby’s will present a single-owner collection of important jewels in New York, marking a landmark moment in the auction house’s history.
Titled A Legacy of Elegance – Jewels from an Exceptional Collection, the sale brings together more than 60 pieces of rare craftsmanship and provenance.
The collection will headline Sotheby’s inaugural luxury exhibitions and auctions at its new home in the Breuer building.
Expected to exceed $8 million, the sale includes works by Suzanne Belperron and Joel Arthur Rosenthal (JAR), along with exceptional pieces from Cartier, Boivin, and Boucheron.
With its focus on artistry and connoisseurship, it is already being described as one of the most important jewellery auctions of recent years.
The Significance of the Sale
Sotheby’s has not held an evening jewellery auction in New York for more than ten years, which makes this event particularly noteworthy.
The Breuer building, a landmark of modernist architecture on Madison Avenue, offers a fitting setting for this presentation of design excellence.
Quig Bruning, Sotheby’s Head of Jewels, Americas and EMEA, explained:
“This collection stands out for its compelling variety of characteristics,rarity, distinguished authorship, impeccable provenance, and above all, iconic design. It is a true celebration of connoisseurship, showcasing the finest jewels and artisans from the late 19th century through to the present day. Assembled with both passion and joy, these treasures were clearly deeply cherished and lovingly worn by their owner. Today, this exceptional collection takes its place alongside some of Sotheby’s most celebrated jewelry legacies in recent memory, including those of Mrs. Paul (Bunny) Mellon, Evelyn and Estée Lauder, Brooke Astor and Jayne Wrightsman.”
Suzanne Belperron – A Visionary of Modern Jewellery
Central to the collection is the work of Suzanne Belperron, one of the most influential designers of the 20th century. Her sculptural, unconventional designs made her a pioneer of modern jewellery.
Belperron began her career at René Boivin in 1919 before joining Bernard Herz in 1932. Her clients included royalty, aristocrats, and cultural icons such as the Duchess of Windsor and Elsa Schiaparelli. She declined to sign her jewels, famously saying: “My style is my signature.”
Key highlights include a Pink Topaz, Aquamarine, Morganite and Diamond Necklace (estimate $250,000–350,000), which shows her daring use of colour and form, and a Chalcedony and Amethyst Cuff (estimate $80,000–120,000), noted for its machine-age aesthetic and originality.
JAR – The Fabergé of Our Time
Joel Arthur Rosenthal, known as JAR, represents the other cornerstone of the sale. Born in 1 and based in Paris, his name has become synonymous with rarity, artistry, and innovation.
His discreet boutique at 7 Place Vendôme is regarded as one of the most important addresses in the world of jewellery.
Catharine Becket, Sotheby’s Global Head of High Jewelry, noted:
“At the heart of this extraordinary collection are the works of Suzanne Belperron and JAR, true artists who, through extraordinary imagination, technical mastery and a renegade’s confidence, changed the course of jewelry design from the 1920s to today. Though created decades apart, their jewels were – and in the case of Mr. Rosenthal, continue to be – conceived for those who appreciate the unconventional, the unexpected and, in many cases, a flourish of eccentricity.”
The collection features more than ten works by JAR, including his celebrated Diamond Earclips (estimate $500,000–700,000), inspired by frost and notable for their dendritic form.
His Three Wild Rose Brooches (total estimate $850,000–1,150,000) showcase natural pearls set within pavé blooms, highlighting his painterly approach to gem-setting.
Highlights Beyond Belperron and JAR
While Belperron and JAR anchor the collection, other notable works include:
Boivin Sapphire and Diamond Brooch: Once owned by style icon Daisy Fellowes, estimated at $40,000–60,000.
Boucheron Ruby and Diamond Laurel Leaf Necklace: Featuring 40 carats of rubies and 65 carats of diamonds, estimated at $1,000,000–2,000,000, with provenance linking it to Mary Louise Mackay and Countess Mona Bismark.
Cartier Ruby and Diamond Bracelet: A striking example of an invisible setting, estimated at $300,000–500,000, associated with Rubel Frères, known for their Art Deco craftsmanship.
Global Tour and Exhibition
Before the New York auction, selected highlights will tour worldwide. Stops include Hong Kong, Paris, Dubai, Singapore, Taipei, Geneva, and Los Angeles, before the final presentation at the Breuer building in December.
For collectors and admirers of fine design, these previews offer a rare opportunity to see jewellery of such calibre before it enters private hands.
A Celebration of Jewellery as Art
The collection brings together two of the most important names in jewellery design while also tracing a wider story of craftsmanship and cultural heritage.
From Gilded Age patrons to avant-garde Parisian designers, every piece represents a distinct chapter in the history of jewellery.
As Sotheby’s prepares for A Legacy of Elegance this December, the auction highlights not only rarity and artistry but also the enduring status of jewellery as a form of cultural expression.
