A spectacular 300-carat diamond necklace with connections to Marie Antoinette’s infamous affair heads to Sotheby’s auction, expected to fetch £2.1 million.
In a stunning revelation that has sent ripples through the world of high-end jewellery and historical artefacts, Sotheby’s has announced the upcoming auction of an extraordinarily rare and historically significant 18th-century diamond jewel.
This magnificent piece, weighing approximately 300 carats and valued at an estimated 1.6 to 2.4 million Swiss francs (£1.4 to £2.1 million), has made its first public appearance in half a century.
A Glimpse into Georgian Opulence
The unveiling of this exquisite piece offers a tantalising glimpse into the opulent world of Georgian-era court life. Andres White Correal, Chairman of Jewellery Europe and Middle East and Head of Noble Jewels at Sotheby’s, describes the necklace as “a sublime survivor from the opulent court life of the Georgian era, defined by its unrivalled pomp and splendour”.
White Correal’s enthusiasm for the piece is palpable as he continues, “It is arguably one of the most magnificent and intact Georgian jewels in private hands. When compared to other surviving Imperial and Royal jewels from the same period, this necklace stands head and shoulders above these examples; it is a fortune in diamonds, and also a masterclass in exquisite design, workmanship and technical innovation for the period”.
The necklace’s enduring appeal is not lost on modern observers. As White Correal notes, “The jewel is as relevant, alluring, and appealing today as when it was made over two centuries ago. It is the nec plus ultra of 18th-century jewellery design”.
A Journey Through Time
The journey of this remarkable piece through history is as fascinating as its dazzling appearance. Created in the decade preceding the French Revolution, its exact origins remain shrouded in mystery.
However, experts speculate that such an important and historic antique jewel could only have been created for royalty or a high-ranking aristocrat at one of the glittering courts of the ancien régime – most likely the French or English court.
Adding an intriguing layer to its already rich history, it is thought that some of the diamonds featured in this jewel may have come from the infamous necklace at the centre of the “Affair of the Necklace” scandal. This notorious event is widely regarded as a contributing factor to the French Revolution and, ultimately, to the downfall of Marie Antoinette.
From Royal Courts to Auction Houses
While its early history remains somewhat obscure, the necklace’s more recent provenance is well-documented. It is known to have belonged to the Marquesses of Anglesey, a prominent Anglo-Welsh aristocratic family with close ties to the British Royal family in the early 20th century.
In 1937, the necklace played a starring role in one of the most significant events in British royal history. Marjorie Paget, Marchioness of Anglesey and eldest daughter of Henry Manners, 8th Duke of Rutland, wore the jewel to the coronation of King George VI.
The Marchioness was immortalised wearing her coronation robes and the diamond jewel by renowned society photographer Cecil Beaton, creating an enduring image of regal splendour.
The necklace’s royal connections continued into the next generation. In 1953, the Marchioness’s daughter-in-law attended the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II, adorned with the same ensemble of heirloom jewels. This repeated appearance at two of the most significant British royal events of the 20th century cements the necklace’s place not just as a stunning piece of craftsmanship but as a witness to history.
A Jewel of Many Facets
The technical aspects of this late 18th-century jewel are as impressive as its historical significance. Composed of three rows of diamonds and finished with a diamond tassel at each end, it exemplifies the opulence and versatility that characterised the jewellery of its era.
One of the most intriguing aspects of this piece is its adaptability. As was common for high-end jewellery of the time, it was designed to be worn in multiple ways. It could be draped around the neck as a traditional necklace, with the tassels hanging loose or tied in a simple knot. Alternatively, it could be sewn onto clothing as an ornamental piece, showcasing the wearer’s wealth and status in a different but equally striking manner.
The diamonds themselves are a testament to the finest gemstones available in the 18th century. All are cut in the old mine brilliant style, each weighing between one and one and a half carats. Experts believe these stones likely originated from the legendary Golconda mines in India, renowned for producing some of the world’s most coveted diamonds.
The Golconda Connection
The potential Golconda origin of the diamonds adds another layer of fascination to this already remarkable piece. Golconda diamonds, first discovered in the 4th century BC, are considered the purest and most dazzling diamonds ever mined. The fact that the mines became extinct nearly 200 years ago only adds to their mystique and value.
These diamonds are characterised by their exceptional clarity and brilliance, often described as having a unique watery appearance. The inclusion of Golconda diamonds in this necklace not only speaks to its immense value but also connects it to a rich tradition of diamond mining and craftsmanship that spans millennia.
The Auction: A Once-in-a-Lifetime Opportunity
The culmination of this extraordinary journey will be the auction itself, set to take place on 11 November at the Mandarin Oriental in Geneva. The necklace will be the highlight of Sotheby’s Royal and Noble sale, occurring just days before the Magnificent Jewels sale on 13 November.
For collectors and institutions alike, this auction represents a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to acquire a piece that is not just a stunning example of 18th-century jewellery design, but a tangible connection to some of the most significant moments in European history.
The Broader Context: Historical Jewels in the Modern Market
The emergence of this necklace onto the auction market raises interesting questions about the value and significance of historical jewels in the 21st century. While contemporary fine jewellery continues to break records at auction, pieces with such extensive historical provenance occupy a unique niche.
These items appeal not just to jewellery collectors, but to a broader range of buyers including museums, historical institutions, and those fascinated by tangible links to the past. The combination of exquisite craftsmanship, precious materials, and rich history makes such pieces particularly valuable and sought-after.
Preservation and Conservation Challenges
The survival of this necklace in such pristine condition for over two centuries is remarkable in itself. It raises important questions about the preservation and conservation of historical jewellery pieces.
Unlike many antique jewels that have been modified, reset, or broken up over time, this necklace appears to have remained largely intact. This preservation not only adds to its value but also provides invaluable insights into 18th-century jewellery-making techniques and styles.
For future owners, whether private collectors or institutions, the responsibility of maintaining this piece in its current condition while potentially making it accessible for study or display will be a significant consideration.
The Future of Historical Jewels
As this extraordinary piece prepares to change hands, it prompts reflection on the future of such historical jewels. In an era where the provenance and ethical sourcing of gemstones are increasingly scrutinised, pieces with well-documented histories like this necklace may become even more valued.
Moreover, the increasing use of technology in both jewellery creation and historical research opens up new possibilities for studying and appreciating such pieces. Advanced imaging techniques, for instance, might reveal previously unknown details about the necklace’s construction or the origin of its diamonds.
Conclusion: A Gem of History and Craftsmanship
As the auction date approaches, anticipation continues to build around this extraordinary piece of jewellery. More than just a stunning example of 18th-century craftsmanship, it serves as a tangible link to a pivotal era in European history.
From the glittering courts of pre-revolutionary France to the coronations of British monarchs, this necklace has borne witness to events that shaped the modern world. Its journey from royal necks to the auction block is a testament to the enduring allure of fine craftsmanship and the unending fascination with objects that connect us to our past.
As it prepares to find a new home, this rare and highly important 18th-century diamond jewel stands as a sparkling reminder of the power of jewellery to captivate, inspire, and preserve history. Whatever the outcome of the auction, one thing is certain: this extraordinary piece will continue to dazzle and intrigue for generations to come.
Images: Sotheby’s
