Sotheby’s to auction over 100 rare Bulgarian royal jewels from Tsar Ferdinand’s collection, unseen for a century, in Geneva this November.
Sotheby’s is set to present an extraordinary collection of royal jewels at their upcoming auction. The collection, aptly named “A Tsar’s Treasure: Ferdinand of Bulgaria (1861-1948)”, promises to be one of the most significant assemblages of royal and noble jewels from Central European courts ever to grace the auction block.
A Century-Old Collection Unveiled
The jewels, which have remained hidden from public view for nearly a century, are set to make their debut at Sotheby’s Royal & Noble Jewels Sale on 13 November 2024. This event forms part of the prestigious Sotheby’s Luxury Week in Geneva, adding an extra layer of allure to an already star-studded occasion.
The collection boasts over 100 pieces, each telling a unique story of royal opulence and historical significance. These treasures span nearly a century in the annals of the illustrious family of Tsar Ferdinand of Saxe-Cobourg-Gotha, offering a rare glimpse into the lavish lifestyle of European royalty during the 19th and early 20th centuries.
Andres White Correal, Sotheby’s Chairman of Jewellery Europe and Middle East and Head of Noble Jewels, expressed his enthusiasm for the collection:
“‘A Tsar’s Treasure: Ferdinand of Bulgaria’ is a unique continuation of ‘Vienna 1900: An Imperial and Royal Collection’, offering us a privileged glimpse into the Tsar’s refined lifestyle, comprising jewels and objects that were illustrative of his personal life. His collection is a confluence of the most prominent Central European Royal families’ passion for extraordinary objects. Here, excellence, taste and superlative craftsmanship are the common thread. It is an honour for Sotheby’s Royal and Noble Jewels to bring such a rare collection to the market for the first time.
A Royal Legacy
The collection is a testament to Tsar Ferdinand’s exquisite taste, which was nurtured by his mother, Princess Clementine of Orleans. As the daughter of the last French King, Louis Philippe 1er, Princess Clementine was herself an avid jewellery collector, passing on her passion and discerning eye to her son.
This exceptional assemblage features not only pieces owned by Tsar Ferdinand and heirlooms from his mother but also jewellery passed down through generations from key members of the Tsar’s immediate lineage. Of particular note are pieces made for his children, especially his daughters Princesses Eudoxia and Nadezha.
Philipp Württemberg, from Philipp Württemberg Art Advisory GmbH, which collaborated with Sotheby’s to bring this collection to auction, commented:
“This collection of jewels has never left the family of tsar Ferdinand of Bulgaria. It is a very intimate ensemble. Some pieces belonged to tsar Ferdinand’s wife or mother, but many others show his personal choice and taste, like the fabulous coloured diamond pin or the extraordinary collection of cufflinks.”
A Showcase of Craftsmanship and Design
The collection stands as a vivid example of the paramount importance of high jewellery in the lives of Europe’s most prominent royal houses during the 19th and early 20th centuries. These pieces were not merely adornments but integral components of both everyday and ceremonial dressing, reflecting the height of sophistication at court where even daily objects were elevated to an art form.
What sets this collection apart is its sophisticated and international nature. It features pieces produced by several Austro-Hungarian jewellers as well as leading international artisans of their time, including Bapst, Eugène Fontenay, Froment-Meurice, and Castellani. This diverse array of creators adds a rich tapestry of styles and techniques to the collection, making it a veritable treasure trove for jewellery connoisseurs and historians alike.
Colourful Gems and Masculine Elegance
A particularly noteworthy aspect of the collection is its remarkable use of high-quality coloured diamonds and gemstones, which held a special appeal for Tsar Ferdinand. Items from the Tsar’s personal collection within this sale gloriously elevate typically masculine and practical personal effects such as cufflinks, tie pins, and cigarette cases into true works of art.
The crown jewel of the sale is undoubtedly a yellow gold tie pin, estimated at 500,000 USD – 700,000 USD. This extraordinary piece features a fleur-de-lis motif set with a 2.08 carat pear-shaped Fancy Gray-Blue diamond and four coloured diamonds.
These include a 0.65 carat Fancy Pink diamond, a 0.52 Fancy Green diamond, a 0.47 carat Fancy Deep Brown-Orange diamond, and a 0.13 carat Fancy Intense Green-Yellow diamond. This single item encapsulates the rarity and splendour that define the entire collection.
A Century of Royal Fashion
The collection’s diversity is truly remarkable, encompassing a wide range of jewellery types and objets d’art. From tiaras and brooches to bracelets, cigarette cases, cufflinks, and objects of vertu, each piece reflects the evolving tastes and jewellery designs favoured by Central Europe’s most influential ruling families from the mid-19th century onwards.
This breadth of styles and items offers a unique opportunity for collectors and enthusiasts to acquire pieces that span nearly a century of royal fashion and craftsmanship. It provides a tangible connection to a bygone era of European royalty, making it an irresistible draw for those fascinated by history and fine jewellery alike.
Highlights of the Collection
Among the myriad treasures in this collection, several pieces stand out for their historical significance, craftsmanship, or sheer opulence. One such piece is a diamond bandeau from the 1890s, estimated at 80,000 USD – 120,000 USD.
This exquisite piece was worn by Princess Nadejda of Württemberg (1899-1958) at her wedding to Albrecht Eugen, Duke of Württemberg (1895-1954). It is believed to have been created by the Viennese jeweller Rothe & Neffe for her mother, Princess Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma, Princess Consort of Bulgaria (1870-1899).
Another highlight is a diamond rivière necklace from the late 19th century, estimated at 100,000 USD – 150,000 USD. This stunning necklace was inherited by Princess Eudoxia of Bulgaria (1898-1985) from her mother, Princess Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma.
Historical records indicate that Princess Marie Louise’s father, Robert, Duke of Parma (1848-1907), gifted her two rows of diamonds as a wedding present in 1893. It is likely that this rivière necklace corresponds to one of those rows.
A gem set and diamond bracelet by Eugène Fontenay, circa 1870, is another notable piece, estimated at 40,000 USD – 60,000 USD. This bracelet boasts an impressive provenance, having belonged to Princess Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma, Princess Consort of Bulgaria (1870-1899).
It is believed to have been inherited from her mother, Princess Maria Pia of Bourbon-Two Sicilies, Duchess of Parma (1849-1882), before passing to Princess Eudoxia of Bulgaria (1898-1985).
Lastly, a ruby, sapphire and diamond bracelet, attributed to Bapst and dating to circa 1880, is estimated at 30,000 USD – 50,000 USD. This piece comes from the collection of Princess Clémentine of Orléans (1817-1907) and is housed in a case by Bapst, the French crown jeweller, adding to its royal pedigree.
From the Collection of Princess Clémentine of Orléans (1817-1907). Case by Bapst, the French crown jeweller.
The Auction: A Collector’s Dream
The “A Tsar’s Treasure: Ferdinand of Bulgaria (1861-1948)” collection is expected to fetch between 1.2 million and 1.8 million USD when it goes under the hammer on 13 November at the Mandarin Oriental in Geneva. This single-owner collection will be offered as part of the Royal and Noble Jewels Sale, a highlight of Sotheby’s Luxury Sales in Geneva.
For collectors of royal jewels, this auction represents a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to acquire pieces with impeccable provenance and historical significance. The rarity of such a comprehensive collection coming to market cannot be overstated, making this event a must-watch for serious collectors and institutions alike.
A Continuation of Success
This auction follows on the heels of the highly successful “Vienna 1900: An Imperial and Royal Collection” sale, held at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Geneva on 6 and 7 November 2023. That event, which was also a collaboration between Sotheby’s and Philipp Württemberg Art Advisory GmbH, resulted in a white glove sale – a term used when every lot in an auction is sold.
The success of the previous sale bodes well for “A Tsar’s Treasure”, suggesting a keen interest among collectors for royal jewels from Central European courts. It also speaks to the expertise of both Sotheby’s and Philipp Württemberg Art Advisory GmbH in bringing such significant collections to market.
Conclusion: A Treasure Trove Unveiled
As the auction date approaches, anticipation continues to build in the world of fine jewellery and historical artefacts. “A Tsar’s Treasure: Ferdinand of Bulgaria (1861-1948)” promises to be more than just a sale of exquisite jewels; it represents a unique window into the opulent world of European royalty at the turn of the 20th century.
From the personal adornments of Tsar Ferdinand to the heirlooms passed down through generations of his family, each piece in this collection tells a story of power, wealth, and artistic excellence. As these treasures find new homes, they will continue to serve as tangible links to a fascinating period of European history, preserving the legacy of the Bulgarian royal court for future generations.
For collectors, historians, and jewellery enthusiasts alike, the Sotheby’s Royal & Noble Jewels Sale on 13 November 2024 is set to be an unmissable event, offering a rare opportunity to own a piece of royal history. As the world watches, these long-hidden treasures will finally step into the spotlight, ready to begin the next chapter in their illustrious journey.
Images: Sotheby’s
