Beyond runway trends, the trend-word that has been on everyone’s lips during this fashion week season is “inclusivity”. The Louis Vuitton Fall Winter 2019 Menswear Collection has perhaps been the greatest example of this so far. From the setting to the arrival to the attendees and clothes, its all about inclusion. With the hight of the influencer, no longer are the high-priests of fashion leaders of the establishment and situated on the top floors of office buildings. Oh no, leading fashion commentators can now be anyone from a soccer mom to a gap-year student. Fashion is no longer a closed circle community with only a few allowed into the Salon Privé (excuse the pun and punt). It is now the domain of the everyman.
We all arrived to find a tent had been setup in the Tuileries Gardens. Perhaps a philosophical statement that the “outsiders” have set up camp within the heart of the old establishment and are here to stay. Arriving at the show almost felt like arriving at a premiere or an awards show with throngs of onlookers standing outside and posting live Instagram videos. Stepping inside the Louis Vuitton tent was like being transported to a set. A very iconic set. Within seconds, some before even reading the notes immediately recognised it as the “Micheal Jackson street”. The showcase was an ode to the king of pop but in a more abstract way – even though there are some easter eggs of the pop icons style throughout.
The Louis Vuitton Fall Winter 2019 Menswear Collection was only Virgil Abloh’s second show as creative director for menswear at the brand. That being said, Abloh has already shaken up ‘French fashion’ to the point where it will never be the same again. Although even I will admit, we all expected something more streetwear that was not what we got. Instead, the Louis Vuitton Fall Winter 2019 Menswear Collection is an almost rebirth, or rather reimagining, of how we perceive tailoring. The collection sees a fine line between baggy, oversized yet structured silhouettes. The collection sees a distortion of quintessentially Parisian lines while staying true to the art, precision and fundamentals of classic tailoring. The sleekness of linen tones was followed by the vibrancy of streetwear influences and pop-culture motives.
A recurring trend spotted in the Louis Vuitton Fall Winter 2019 Menswear Collection, as was recently seen in shows like the Raf Simons show, is the military influence. The collection sees military cuffs, coats and insignia.
Another recurring trend that has been popping up everywhere is layering. The layering of outerwear as well as the layering of different styles of clothing. The collection has a bold muteness to it that transcends subcultures and almost bring them together. It is the marriage of the old and new, American and European, formal and casual. It is the rebirth of fashion as we know it.